Here's the backstory on these cookies:

When the seasonal summer direct bus from Malpensa to Lago Maggiore is not running, the next-best way to reach Stresa is by train. The way to do this seems a bit confusing at first, and there is now a new train service from Malpensa, so let's review these two things. How to get to Stresa from Malpensa by train, and what this new train service offers.

To recap train service: To reach Stresa by train from Malpensa the fastest way remains to switch in Busto Arsizio using the Trenitalia trains. As you can see in the map below this is a much shorter route than going into Milano. Take a Trenitalia train from Malpensa's Terminal 1 to Busto Arsizio. From the Trenitalia station in Busto Arsizio take a train for Stresa.



If you are going to Milano however, there is now a new choice for you. In the past, the only way to reach Milano from Malpensa by train had been by taking a train from the airport to Stazione Cadorna, and vice versa, from Milano one could only reach Malpensa from Cadorna. Passengers who wanted to take a train from or to Stazione Centrale needed to take a bus or a metro from Cadorna to reach Centrale. (The metro may be the more handy method, as it won't have the risk of becoming stuck in Milano's unpredictable traffic.) And passengers traveling from Milano Centrale could not reach Malpensa directly by train.

But now that has finally changed. The new Freccia Rossa high-speed line connects Malpensa with Centrale. At present only two trains a day are running this route: 12:21 and at 19:21, and the trip takes 40 minutes.

Use the Trenitalia English website to plan your train travel.

Writing the previous post about Carmine Superiore has made me recall the rest of that day. A nice memory, of which sadly I don't have many photos, but the evening, and now this post, contain ten of my favorite things, and I'll share them with you now.

So... after hiking down from Carmine Superiore with Laura and the seminary students we all waited for the public bus on the main street, just as described in the directions. When they departed the bus in Verbania I could have remained on all the way back to Stresa, however, I had made plans to meet with Giuseppe in Intra, Verbania, to spend the evening there, as it was a special night when an event was planned in Piazza Ranzoni, una serata di Prosecco, a Prosecco tasting event, and maybe I've mentioned before, that I LOVE Prosecco .

I arrived at Intra perfectly at aperitivo time and earlier than Giuseppe. Even though I had the panini and Fresia d'Asi for lunch on the mountain I was ready for something else. I waited at a table at Bar Milano in the piazza and I ordered a Spritz. They were getting ready for the tasting event at this time... people scurried around putting tables together and the band was setting up their equipment, testing the sound system every now and then. Across the road from the piazza is the lake, and so it is open to the water on one side and surrounded by colorful, Liberty-style buildings and flower-draped balconies on all the others. I watched all this and I watched some people in a window across the way who were maybe watching me watching them.

Carmine Superiore is off the beaten trail, but ironically, it's only by being literally on the beaten trail that you can find it. To reach this tiny medieval hamlet one must find the right dirt path from the main road near Cannobio and Cannero Riviera on Lago Maggiore. Then, climb steeply for 100 meters to reach the rocky outcrop and the remains of the village. When you arrive, stand in front of the 14th century church and gaze out over the lake and the surrounding mountains. If there are no boats in view it is extremely easy to imagine that what you're seeing is much the same as what the first inhabitants of Carmine Superiore saw, one thousand years ago.

I walked up this path on a warm August morning with my Italian teacher, Laura, and a group of American seminary students from her language school. The winding path up now has metal handrails on some of the steeper spots and sharp turns. After the last twist, the first view of the village is an imposing and misleadingly rustic side of the church. Narrow paths, sometimes of natural rock, lead maze-like around the homes; it feels safe and comfortable up there, and yet, at the same time, somehow precarious.



We were there for a special treat. Louise, who is one of the very few current inhabitants of the village, and instrumental in its restoration, had kindly agreed to meet us and unlock the large wooden doors of the church, San Gottardo. Originally from England, Louise and her family now make their home here. She writes of her experience on her blog, A View From Carmine Superiore. She's become an expert on the history of the town and church.

Its origins go back to the years right at the end of the first millennium, at a time when the land around Lago Maggiore first became permanently populated. And in the 1500s, when the Mazzarditi brothers, who lived in the Castles of Cannero, were tormenting the area, little Carmine Superiore was a refuge and a sanctuary to those in need.



The students and I wandered around the church, which was begun in the early 1300s and consecrated by Cardinal Carlo Borromeo in 1574. It was named for the Saxon bishop of Gottardo, who traveled through these parts on his journeys to and from Rome. Only one thing tells us we are in the 21st century, the spotlights that have been embedded in the floor of the church to highlight some of the frescoes on the walls. Mostly partial frescoes now, the 15th and 16th century paintings depict bible stories. Louise tells us how they had been covered with lime during a plague in the 17th century, in an effort to sterilize the building after it had been used as a hospital. They were only uncovered again in the past twenty years.



The small terrace area outside had been a cemetery, but now it holds a couple of long tables, and it is where we unwrapped our panini and opened a couple of bottles of Freisa d'Asi, and had a small pranzo, lunch, before beginning our descent down the trail. There is no way to reach the village with a car. The church is used only on very special occasions. It was opened just five times last year for services. Again, spotlights apart, it is not difficult at all to imagine it is another time, another century. What a special opportunity to get a glimpse of a place much unchanged for hundreds of years.

Visit more churches: churches

Or take some more walks: walks

By car: from the A26 motorway, exit towards Verbania and continue along the lakeside SS34 towards Switzerland. The hamlet of Carmine Inferiore is shortly before Cannobio. Leave your car in the car park and take the path to the church (15 min.).

By train: the nearest railway station is Verbania-Pallanza, 29 km from Cannobio. You can reach Carmine Inferiore by the frequent bus service, from the station and then from Intra. The bus makes a stop directly at the base of the path.

There's lots of exciting little bits of news from Stresa in these days. Today let's take a look at singers, silver, and steamy snacks:

We hear that the singer Madonna will be spending some time in Stresa this month. Just like me, it seems she wants to buy a house here. Rumor has it that she is considering a large villa, directly on the lake, previously owned by Gianfranco Ferré. The 18th century mansion is said to be in need of some renovation but sits in a lovely private park and has two private beaches. I'm guessing, and hoping, that my own little dream house down the road in Meina, still for sale, is not on her list. We can be neighbors though...



Last week, at the ceremony held in Cervio, Stresa was awarded a silver medal from the Entente Florale competition judges in the contest for the most beautiful floral cities in Europe. While we certainly would have loved the gold, this is the second year in a row that Stresa has entered the competition in the "Village" category, and the second year that it has come away with a "4 fiori", four flowers, level, the very highest awarded to any city in Italy. Congratulations Stresa, and to all the Stresiani, young and old, who planted and tended to make this possible. We never needed an official award to know that Stresa is beautiful, but it is an honor nonetheless.


Inevitable each year in these first days of autumn, the wild chestnuts in abundance all over Italy. And also as expected, the volunteer fire department of Stresa is, as has become their tradition, preparing roasted chestnuts along the lakefront. This next Sunday, October 10, they will be providing chestnuts hot and smoked for all. Come and enjoy!

This just arrived, from the Stresa Comune office, a nicely made video montage of some highlights from the just closed Class 1 World Powerboat Championship Italian Grand Prix 2010 which took place in Lago Maggiore in front of Stresa from October 1 to 3. The Grand prize went to Guido Cappellini, who dedicated it to his friend and ten-time champion, the late Chicco Vidoli. The weather wasn't too cooperative, but the event was very exciting and well-attended regardless.